Colectivos (public buses)

Using the public bus system in Buenos Aires can be daunting and is a bit of a misnomer, as the system isn't public at all but a collection of independantly owned operators. Some of the routes are 50 KM and more, and wind there way through many little barrios and neighbouring towns. There can be different routes for the same bus lines, and if you don't pay attention to the sign on the lower left hand corner of the windscreen detailing its routing, you may be in for a surprise. This being said, the system works and is happily used by many hundreds of thousands of commuters daily.

Before you even venture onto a bus, you'd be foolish not to lay out the $2 or $3 ARS it costs to get a bus guide. The “Guia “T”  de Bolsillo” is published annually and includes all the information you'll need, and then some, to effectively make use of this practical and cheap method of transportation. They can be purchased at most newstands around the city, but especially around Retiro Station. There are different versions, some with a spiral binder and others a bit more cumbersome but with larger type and maps.

Using the Guia "T"

To use the guide, first look up the street from which you will be departing. It's located at the beginning of the book. You wil see a Map Page and a set of co-ordinates listed next to the street name. Were you looking for 1755 Vincente Lopez, for example,  the numbers listed to the left of the name refer to the range of street addresses, whereas the 29-D-1 on the right refers to Page 29, Co-ordinates D-1.

Now go to the map section and find the one listed as well as the co-ordinates. Each page is divided into quadrants , the left with the bus lines and the right with the maps. If you are departing from the area within quadrant B3 on the map page, you look to the left and find its match. The corresponding B3 quadrant on the left page will list all the buses that operate in this area. Now you repeat this procedure with your final desination. Find its quadrant on a map page, match it up with the bus page on the left, and see if there are any bus lines common to your departure point. It may take a little detective work, but eventually you'll find a bus that departs or arrives in a zone not too far from your ideal points.

Map on the right, divided in quadrants matched by those on the left containing the bus lines operating in that zone.

The guide also has a listing of all the bus lines that operate in Buenos Aires with colour photos that show you the unique paint scheme each bus line features. This makes it easier to identify a bus when you do a last second mad dash to board. The listing goes into minute detail, listing every street the bus uses as it winds its way to its final destination. It's another useful tool in doing the detective work necessary to find the ideal line that will get you to where you want to go in the most direct manner.

Street by street listed, both outbound and ingoing. They use a slightly different route in either direction due to most streets being uni-directional.

Once on board

Once you've decided on which bus line or # you wish to take, you'll make your way to the street on which its listed as running and find the appropriate bus stop. Where I come from, all buses that stop on a designated corner share the same bus stop and/or shelter. Not so in Buenos Aires. There are far too many buses, so they stop at designated areas in the middle of blocks as well as every available corner, each being unique to a few bus lines. Be aware that here people queue to the right of the bus stop and not the left as in North America.

Here you see the typical bus stop sign. Not only does it list the bus #, but also the major streets and/or points of interest on its route. 

Buses in Buenos Aires do not automatically stop when they see passengers waiting at one of their designated stops. You must flag them down. Just show the driver the palm of your hand, as if you were gesturing him to stop or slow down. Unlike buses in many areas, drivers in Buenos Aires will almost always stop, no matter how full they are. Perhaps they work on commission. Since there are so many buses that ply the same routes, if your bus seems too full, wait a few minutes for the next one. It will often be as empty as the previous one was full. Riding an emptier bus will also hinder a pickpocket who favours the crowded one to ply his trade. 

Once you board the bus you have two options. You either tell the driver your destination (cross streets or point of interest), allowing him to program the automatic machine with the correct fare, or you merely walk on board and pay the standard $0.80 ARS fare. The reason for telling the driver your final destination is that bus lines charge less for short runs and more for longer ones. They usually range from $0.70 to $1.20 ARS or so. Paying less than you are supposed to can subject you to a fine if an inspector boards the bus and discovers your ticket was a few centivos short.   If your Spanish is poor it's useful to learn off the words "ochenta por favor" which means "80 please" which will save you trying to explain exactly where you want to go.

.Once your fare has been determined, you use the automatic machine, usually located behind the driver, and insert your coins. The machine does not accept paper currency, but does provide change. A ticket will be dispensed together with any applicable change. Keep the receipt, in case the bus inspector makes his rounds, find a seat and enjoy the view. Buses are generally not air conditioned, but neither are the buses in my hometown. There are a number of smaller micro buses on some routes that are air conditioned and they have a slightly higher fare. Buenos Aires bus drivers tend to speed, and the resulting breeze from the open windows is usually refreshing enough, pollution notwithstanding.

Automatic fare collector and ticket dispenser on the left behind the driver.   

When you're ready to leave the bus, simply buzz the driver using one of the buttons located on many of the vertical poles and depart using the back door. If the bus is too crowded to make your way back, or you're sitting close to the driver, using the front door is acceptable.  The drivers don't seem to like stopping so don't expect the bus to always come to a complete halt before people start to get off!  Having said that make sure to use the colectivos - for the tourist they are a cheap and fun way to explore this great city.