Philippe the Original (popularly known as Philippe's) is an LA icon. Whenever I pick up a guidebook that purports to be about LA restaurants, I look to see if this is even mentioned. If not, then it's a major omission. Why? Because, along with Cole's P.E. Buffet, Philippe's is one of the oldest restaurants in Los Angeles. Incidentally, it has a rivalry with Cole's over who came up with the idea of the French Dip. I make no assertions, but --having been to both-- I think Philippe's has the best.

This isn't the original location, that space (which was apparently tiny) was demolished for the 101 Freeway. This new location is larger, with expanded space on the 2nd floor when it gets too busy (more on that below). The place exudes an old-world, proletarian charm: the food is for the masses, it's not haute cuisine. The floors are strewn with sawdust, the tables and fixtures are utilitarian (but not without their charm), and you order from the counter. The ladies back there are experienced professionals: they wear old-fashioned uniforms and put together larger orders in an efficient pace. If you go in expecting to eat timeless, quality food --you will not be disappointed.

My perfect Philippe's meal consists of a beef French Dip (requested "double-dipped" so its extra soggy --remember, they dip the bread for you) with either a swiss or blue cheese (it really works), a serving of their coleslaw (I request it served "wet" for extra sogginess), and then a piece of their apple pie (which is also surprisingly good) --other than that I usually grab water from the self-serve table or get a lemonade. Let me go back to the coleslaw: I normally dislike coleslaw, I just am not a fan of mayonnaise, let alone the heavy mayo-ridden coleslaw half-heartedly served at many other places. Philippe's coleslaw is something else altogether: it's fresh, shredded lettuce and a light sauce that's almost sweet and without any heavy mayo flavor. It's truly perfect, and unlike any other I've tried. The mustard is rightfully famous, and is indeed "hot but good" (so use sparingly until you know your limits). I should say the menu is quite expansive, but I stick with the classics... though the $.09 coffee is still a popular choice (it was $.05 until relatively recently).

Weekends and right after sporting events (especially at Dodger Stadium) can cause a serious rush --if you go at those times, remember that --yes-- there are lines in that mass of people you see leading up to the counter. Off hours (e.g. weekday evenings) are the perfect time to go.

I really can't say enough about Philippe's. The food quality is such that you can feel comfortable making it a regular meal. Its truly a highlight of Los Angeles.