I am living in Israel for two years and my wife and I have always wanted to see Petra. This weekend (June 27, 2008) we fulfilled our dreams and took a day trip to Jordan. We traveled to Petra via taxi and we explored the park by ourselves. We only spent 5 hours in Petra but that was enough time to see the main attractions (the Treasury, the Monastery) and a few small side trips – surely not everything the park has to offer. If you are interested in archaeology you could easily spend a few days exploring the vast amount of ruins.
The Good:
Petra is a magnificent ancient city and it truly must have been amazing in it's prime. The Treasury and the Monastery are the highlights and they are well-preserved and impressive facades. I think it is essential to take the time to hike up to the Monastery. If you are in good shape the hike is easy (approximately a 150-250 meter vertical climb, just a guess). It is a lot more isolated than the Treasury and there are far fewer crowds. From the Monastery you can also hike up to a few small peaks to some impressive views of the Jordanian mountains. What surprised me the most about Petra was the sheer number of ruins. Most of them are not preserved very well but it truly is an entire city.
The Bad:
I feel a complete review should cover the good points as well as the bad. And in Petra there are a few bad points. The park certainly did not meet my high expectations based on the noble honors bestowed upon it. Fortunately, many of the issues below have been noted by an organization called the Petra National Trust that is dedicated to fighting for the preservation of Petra.
1) Animal Cruelty - I am not overly sensitive to the treatment of animals but when I see cruelty it disturbs me. There was one incident that I found very disturbing. A boy was sitting on the side of the road on his donkey and repeatedly smacking the donkey in the face with his whip. The donkey was yelling out in pain. Several other visitors noticed this and stopped in disgust. The behavior was certainly not related to working the animal and seemed to be acceptable, which is why we did not confront him (he was being observed by his elders and they chose not to correct him). People very sensitive to animals may see animals being over-worked as well. The good news is that there is a non-profit animal shelter (The Brooke) at the entrance of the park that is dedicated to helping the working animals of Petra.
2) Professional Beggars and badgering – The beggars in Petra are professionals and will have their children approach you. The children can be extremely persistent. When we sat down one of the children came up to us and grabbed at our belongings. This type of environment is expected in the streets of Egypt -- not in a world heritage site. Numerous times we were followed and badgered for a camel/donkey ride -- several times for 5 minutes or more. You will need to be very firm with some of the beggars and animal guides if you would like them to leave you alone.
3) Care for the park – It appears that many of the monuments are used as toilets and storage rooms. This was very apparent in the area of the tombs where the stench of urine was strong. They also have a difficult time keeping the park clean due to all of the donkeys and camels. It is hot and it doesn't exactly smell great and you must watch where you step.
If you are traveling to Petra independently from Eilat here are some tips:
1) The Border – Many people told us to arrive at the border at least one hour before it opened to beat the tour groups. We followed this advice and we were the first people in line. Once the border was opened there were two lines. The first was for exit fees and the second was for passport control. The tour groups were able to skip the first window (I guess their fees were already paid for) and head directly for passport control. So all of the tour groups got in front of us anyway! I am not sure if this is always the case but I wouldn’t be too worried if you cannot arrive at the border crossing extra early. If you need information on the crossing please visit the official Israeli government site at http://www.iaa.gov.il/Rashat/en-US/Borders/Arava/. This site provides all of the information you need to cross (fees, parking, hours, etc.)
2) Taxi from the Aqaba crossing - A Jordanian man at the border crossing told us that we should only pay 35 dinars for a one-way trip to Petra via taxi. He said the local drivers have a monopoly at the crossing and they cannot be trusted to offer a fair price. He recommended that we have the driver take us to the Aqaba bus station (for 5 dinar) and there we could take a bus to Petra or find another cab. We found this advice to be helpful and reaching a price 25-35% off of the original offer should be possible for visitors willing to bargain (the original offer presented to us was 50). Please note however that the bargaining is tough. The drivers lied to us and told us that there was not a bus to Petra, and then they changed their story and told us that the bus station was closed (because it was Friday). We had them take us to the station anyway and on the way the driver finally agreed to our price of 35 dinar.



![Our guide plus a camel :]](http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-t/01/17/3d/79/our-guide-plus-a-camel.jpg)
